How do I engrave a bottle by a fiber laser marking machine?

I want clean marks on bottles. I also want no cracks, no burns, and no wasted time. Many guides confuse first‑time users. I will cut the noise. I will show you what works today, step by step.

You can engrave bottles with the right laser and setup. Use fiber for metal bottles with a rotary. Use UV or CO2 for glass and plastics. Control power, speed, and focus. Add marking spray for glass. Manage fumes. Then your marks will be clear and permanent.

I build and OEM laser machines at Kirin Laser. I work with glass, metal, and plastic bottles every week. I will answer your exact questions. I will share a short client story. I will give clear steps you can use today.

Can I engrave glass with a fiber laser?

Glass is tricky. Many users try fiber first. Then they get cracks, chips, and faint marks. The problem is physics. The glass does not absorb 1064 nm well. So the energy does not couple. The surface fails in random ways.

You should not use a fiber laser on glass bottles. Use a UV laser for direct glass marking. Or use a CO2 laser for frosted marks. If you must use fiber, apply a dedicated UV-curable or ceramic marking spray, then mark the spray, not the glass.

Why fiber struggles on glass

I keep the science simple. Fiber lasers run at 1064 nm. Soda-lime glass does not absorb that wavelength well. The beam passes through or heats tiny spots. This causes micro-fractures. The result looks rough and cloudy. I can push power higher, but the risk grows. The glass can chip or crack. The mark is not stable.

What works better

I switch to a UV laser¹ at 355 nm when I need crisp, shallow marks on glass. UV light couples into the surface well. The process is photochemical, not just thermal. So the edge looks clean. The stress is lower. The contrast is high with a light frosting effect. For rustic or matte marks, I use a CO2 laser². CO2 gives a nice frosted look on glass. It is common for craft brands.

When a client insists on fiber

I sometimes get a tight budget or a hard deadline. The client only has fiber on the floor. In this case, I apply a specialized UV or ceramic marking spray³. The spray absorbs the fiber energy⁴. The laser bonds the pigment to the surface. I focus to the spray layer, not the glass. I use fast speed, low to mid power, and high frequency. This reduces heat input. After marking, I rinse off the unbonded spray. The mark stays. This process lowers crack risk. It also boosts contrast. It is slower than UV or CO2, but it can work when you have no other option.

Settings I start with

I run 15–25 kHz, 15–30% power on a 20–50 W fiber source, 800–1200 mm/s speed, and 0.02–0.04 mm hatch. I use a 254 mm lens for larger areas on bottles. I keep air assist gentle. I avoid long dwell. I test on waste glass first. Small changes matter on glass.

Quick reference

Option	Best use	Look	Risk	Notes
UV laser	Fine logos, text	Crisp, light	Low	Best choice for glass
CO2 laser	Frosted art	Matte	Low-Med	Good for craft brands
Fiber + spray	Budget workaround	Dark, bonded	Med	Needs correct spray and rinse

I learned this the hard way. A beverage client had smudging ink labels on premium glass. I moved them to a UV laser with a dedicated marking spray. The result was sharp and permanent. Their brand stood out on shelves. Their codes passed audits. Their line ran smoother.

What can I engrave with a fiber laser?

Fiber lasers shine on metals. They also work on some plastics. They do deep engrave, anneal, black mark, and color mark on steel. They do fast codes on aluminum. They do serials on titanium. This range is why I choose fiber for metal bottles.

You can engrave stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, brass, and coated metals with a fiber laser. You can mark some engineering plastics and PCBs. For metal bottles, use a rotary to keep focus on the curve. For glass or most plastics, use UV or CO2 instead.

Core strengths on bottles

Metal drinkware is a perfect match for fiber⁵. I engrave stainless steel sport bottles, aluminum canteens, and titanium flasks every week. The marks are durable. The codes are readable. The cycle time is low. I use annealing⁶ for food-grade stainless when I want no depth and no burr. The surface stays smooth. The color turns dark due to oxide layers. It looks premium. I use deep engraving when I want a tactile or paint-fill result. I push power and reduce speed. I add multiple passes.

Rotary for curved surfaces

A bottle is a cylinder. The beam spot must stay normal to the surface. A rotary axis⁷ turns the bottle while the laser scans. Focus stays constant. The mark looks even. Without a rotary, the mark can stretch and blur at the edges. I align the logo centerline to the bottle seam or a clamp reference. I check runout. I set Z height at the midline.

Plastics and coatings

Fiber can mark some dark engineering plastics that absorb 1064 nm. It can also mark painted or anodized layers by removing or foaming the coating. But it can melt soft plastics. It can cause odor and smoke. For most consumer plastics, I pick UV⁸. UV gives clean edges and low heat.

Typical fiber applications on bottles

Material	Method	Look	Notes
Stainless steel	Anneal or deep	Black or etched	Food-safe when annealed
Aluminum (anodized)	Ablate color	White on dark	Very fast and high contrast
Aluminum (raw)	Engrave	Gray	Consider passivation after
Titanium	Anneal or color	Dark or rainbow	Needs tight control
Powder coat	Ablate	Substrate reveal	Great for branded drinkware

Practical setup for throughput

I set up a jig for 3–6 bottles per batch with a swap system. While the rotary runs one bottle, I prep the next. I set marks in EZCAD or LightBurn with variables for serials and dates. I test with a checkerboard of power and speed. I log the best cell. I save it as a material file. This repeatability keeps my clients happy and my operators calm.

What materials will a fiber laser engrave?

I avoid guesswork. I carry a small kit of coupons. I test new lots before I run production. Fiber lasers love metals. They also mark some plastics and coated parts. They are poor for glass and clear plastics without help.

Fiber lasers engrave metals like stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, brass, and tool steel. They also mark some plastics, ceramics, and coated parts. They do not work well on glass or clear acrylic. For those, use UV or CO2 or apply marking sprays.

Metals: the strong zone

I rely on fiber for stainless steel⁹, aluminum, titanium, brass, copper, and hardened steel. I can switch between surface anneal, shallow etch, deep engrave, and black marking. I adjust pulse frequency, duty, and speed. I keep an eye on heat. For aluminum, I increase speed and reduce power to avoid burrs. For tool steel, I use higher power and lower speed to get depth. I add passes with a cross-hatch.

Plastics: handle with care

Fiber can mark some additives in plastics. Dark ABS, PA, PC, and PBT can show a gray or black mark. But results vary by batch. The resin blend matters. The pigment load matters. I always test. If I see melting or a sticky edge, I stop and move to UV. UV is safer for logos¹⁰ near seams and caps on bottles. It leaves less heat effect.

Coatings and films

Anodized aluminum drinks ware marks great with fiber. I remove the dyed layer and reveal white. Powder coat also marks well. I ablate the top layer and show the base metal. Paints vary. Some burn. Some foam. I test with a low power ramp. I also use masking to keep edges crisp.

Not ideal with fiber

Clear glass, clear acrylic¹¹, and PET do not absorb 1064 nm well. The mark is weak or the part is damaged. Ceramics can work if they have pigments or glazes that absorb. But it is inconsistent. Stone is hit or miss. I only promise results on stone after a paid sample run.

Quick map

Category	Good with fiber	Maybe with fiber	Better with UV/CO2
Metals	SS, Al, Ti, brass, tool steel	Copper with care	—
Plastics	Dark PA, ABS, PC with fillers	Some PBT, PEI	PET, PP, PE, clear PC
Coatings	Anodized Al, powder coat	Painted steel	Organic paints, varnish
Glass/Clear	—	With marking spray	UV for fine, CO2 for frost

My rule for bottles

I pick fiber for metal bottles. I pick UV for glass bottles. I pick UV or CO2 for plastic bottles. I use a rotary for curved shapes. I keep focus tight. I keep heat low. I plan for fume control.

Should I paint before or after laser engraving?

I think about the final look first. I think about line speed next. Paint timing changes both. Some brands want raw metal contrast. Some want color fill. Some want to remove paint and reveal metal. The sequence matters.

Engrave first, then paint-fill, if you want recessed, colored marks. Paint first, then engrave, if you want clean metal exposed through the coating. For glass, spray or coat before marking to get contrast, then rinse after. Always test adhesion and cure.

Two common workflows

I use two workflows for bottles. The first is engrave then paint-fill. I cut a shallow cavity with fiber. I clean the cavity with IPA. I mask the area. I push paint into the recessed area. I remove excess. I cure it. The result is vivid and durable. It resists abrasion because the paint sits below the surface. The second is coat then ablate¹². I coat the bottle with powder or paint. I mark with fiber to remove the top layer. I reveal the base metal or a primer. The edges look sharp. The cycle is fast.

How I choose

If the bottle is stainless and the brand wants bold colors, I choose engrave then fill. If the bottle already has a powder coat, I choose ablation. If the brand wants a minimal look, I anneal stainless with no paint. For aluminum with anodize, I ablate only. It is crisp and quick.

Glass and UV process

Glass is different. I often apply a marking spray or a ceramic ink before UV marking. The laser bonds the material. I rinse off the rest. The mark stays dark. If the client wants a color, I can add a cold enamel fill into a lightly etched cavity made by UV. I keep heat low to avoid stress.

Workflow comparison

Goal	Sequence	Laser	Pros	Cons
Color in grooves	Engrave -> paint-fill	Fiber	Durable, premium	Added steps, cure time
Metal reveal	Paint -> ablate	Fiber	Fast, crisp edges	Needs coat control
Frosted glass	Direct mark	CO2	Classic look	Lower contrast
Dark on glass	Spray -> mark -> rinse	UV	High contrast	Spray cost, process time

Practical tips

I scuff lightly before paint-fill¹³ for better grip. I use two thin coats, not one thick coat. I set drying by spec. I avoid silicone near the mark. I use fine nozzles. I log lot numbers for paint and bottles. I keep a small retention sample for every run. These small habits prevent rework.

Do you need a fume extractor for laser engraving?

Yes, you do. Fumes are real. They smell bad. They harm health. They kill optics. They slow production when operators need breaks. A proper extractor keeps air clean. It also protects your lenses and your brand.

A fume extractor is essential. It captures particulates and VOCs from metals, coatings, and sprays. It protects operators, reduces residue, and extends lens life. Choose a unit with HEPA and activated carbon. Size it to the enclosure and the process.

What comes off a bottle

Metal engraving produces fine metal dust. Powder coat ablation produces pigment and resin fumes. Paint-fill can off-gas solvents during cure. Glass marking with sprays produces ceramic or pigment particles. These are not safe to breathe. They also settle on optics and rails. I have seen a lens fail in months when there is no extraction. With proper capture, the same lens runs clean for years.

What extractor to use

I use an enclosure with negative pressure and a fume extractor¹⁴ that has a pre-filter, a HEPA filter¹⁵, and a carbon stage. The pre-filter catches large dust. The HEPA catches fine particles. The carbon stage absorbs VOCs. I size airflow to the enclosure volume and the leak points. I like a face velocity near 0.5 m/s at the openings. I keep duct runs short. I avoid sharp bends.

Maintenance

I set a filter change schedule. I log pressure drop. When the pressure rises, I swap filters. I keep spare filters on hand. I also clean the enclosure glass and the lens window weekly. I add a sacrificial window under the lens. It is cheap and easy to replace. This protects the F-theta lens.

Airflow and quality

Component	Role	Notes
Pre-filter	Captures big dust	Replace often to save HEPA
HEPA	Captures fine particles	Check pressure drop
Carbon	Adsorbs VOCs	Replace by odor or hours
Enclosure	Keeps capture efficient	Reduces room air mixing

Safety and compliance

My customers in the U.S. ask about OSHA and local codes. A good extractor helps meet safety rules. It creates a better work setting. It reduces complaints and turnover. It also helps pass audits for large buyers. I treat air like a core process, not a cost. It pays back in uptime.

Conclusion

Bottle engraving¹⁶ is not guesswork for me. Fiber lasers are perfect for metal bottles, with a rotary and tuned settings. UV or CO2 is better for glass and most plastics. Sprays help when hardware is fixed. Paint timing follows the look you want. A fume extractor is not optional. It protects people and machines. I test, log, and standardize. Then I scale. This is how I support fast launches and steady growth for my clients.